You’re fresh out of the shower and towel drying your hair, contemplating blow drying. It only takes a few minutes and you’ll have that shiny, dry, polished look—but is blow drying bad for your hair? You’ve heard all the horror stories from fried frazzled ends to split ends. Your one friend who doesn’t blow dry her hair anymore never complains about it because her hair looks like a shampoo commercial every day. Is blow drying that bad? Will it kill your hair?
Realistically, there’s nothing wrong with wanting to blow dry your hair—in fact, it helps anyone get ready for work or a night out quicker. Yet doing it too often, or doing it incorrectly, can result in dull looking hair, dry and brittle ends which cause hair to break off. But having a blow dryer doesn’t mean you’ll never have healthy hair! There’s no reason to give up on the appliance if you love that salon-ready finish at home without going to the salon every day! With some techniques and know how, the damage can be mitigated. This article will discuss how blow drying works, tricks to keeping hair healthy while blow drying and when not to blow dry at all.
How Blow Drying Affects Your Hair
Now let’s get scientific. Hair is made of protein, it is constructed and bonded with moisture and oil. So when you blow dry, you’re not only putting heat literally onto your strands, but you’re also conditioning the process to lose moisture. Think about a sponge. If left out in the sun, dried over time, it become rigid and will flake. This is not the reaction you want your body having.
So when a blow dryer is pointed at wet hair, the intention is to dry hair. But to dry hair means to quickly allow the water content in your hair to evaporate. But allowing evaporation weakens the hair shaft (the part of your hair that is visible) into an arbitrary choice of selection. If you feel like your hair is straw-like after blow drying, this is your body crying out for moisture.
In addition to this, the cuticle layer (the protective layer of the hair) feels it as well because as a protective covering of hundreds of thousands of tiny scales, when heat is applied, these scales can lift, allowing for more breakage, more tangling. When heat is applied every day or on too high a temperature setting, hair fails the stress test it never anticipated to undergo.
But it’s not just the heat. The action of blow drying can do just as much harm. Raking a brush through wet tendrils while hot air blasts at the cuticle can overstretch and snap it in two. Hair is so fragile when wet, that to add insult to injury with poor technique creates split ends. And if you’re wielding a hot tool a little too close to your hair? You might as well be cooking it.
But that doesn’t mean you should get rid of your blow dryer! The takeaway here is that blow drying isn’t necessarily a bad thing. It all depends on technique and knowing the facts.
Why Blow Drying is Bad for Your Hair
People say blow drying your hair is the worst thing you can do to it. Why? Because most people—knowingly or unknowingly—blow dry incorrectly. Whether you’re in a hurry and opt for that high heat with the nozzle one inch from the roots, or you continually blow dry until strands are completely dry, assuming this will allow for more shine (spoiler, it doesn’t), we tend to do blow drying a disservice.
Blow drying also makes existing issues worse. Is your hair dry from bleaching? Is your hair dry from too much sun exposure or water hardness? The increased heat helps over-process what your hair has already experienced. It’s the proverbial cherry on top of the bad sundae. Because damaged hair has already taken so much stress, it won’t withstand more, meaning those with anything but healthy hair will suffer even more breakage or dull locks after they blow dry.
Then there’s the drying aspect. People who air dry say it looks better and for some, it is. When you air dry, you’re keeping the moisture and oils on your strands which can give it a shinier slicker look. But who are we kidding? Air drying is not always convenient. Thick hair or humid areas make air drying take hours. Who wants to walk around with wet hair for hours?
Blow drying isn’t evil, it’s a process. Like food, it depends on how you cook it. If you can enjoy the benefits without blow drying being bad for your hair, it’s necessary for convenience. But how do you successfully blow dry without the detrimental effects? Let’s get to the juicy details.
How to Blow Dry without Damaging Your Hair
If you want to blow dry like a pro without damaging your hair, here are some actionable steps to avoid any damage potential while enjoying the process—these simple changes can go a long way.
First and foremost make sure your starting point is correct. BEFORE you even pick up a blow dryer, start preparing your hair in other ways. When you wash your hair, towel dry by gently squeezing out the excess water. Do NOT scrub your head like you’re trying to erase a stubborn stain from your favorite pot; you’re lifting the cuticle and creating frizz. A microfiber towel or even an old t-shirt works better than the regular towel because it’s less abrasive and absorbs water more effectively.
Next, a heat protectant. This is a non-negotiable. Heat protectants are like sunscreen for your strands; they create a barrier to help fend off damage caused by high temperatures. You can find one in any drugstore and they come in sprays, creams, and serums, so there’s something for everyone. Just be sure to apply it evenly throughout the lengths of your hair, concentrating on the ends where damage is more likely.
Next, settings. Blow dryers have heat and speed settings, so use them! For instance, start with a medium/low heat setting. Yes, high heat dries your hair faster, but it also dries your hair faster than it should. Similarly, if you have access to a cool shot option, use it at the end of your blow dry to close the cuticle and lock in moisture and shine. Along with heat settings, don’t blast your hair with high speeds. Medium speed is just fine and prevents tangles.
Moreover, distance is crucial. You want to keep your blow dryer about six inches away from your hair. Bring it in closer and you’re honing in on too much heat in one area which can burn the hair and/or fry the scalp. Always keep the blow dryer moving so no one spot gets too much attention. For example, you wouldn’t paint a wall by keeping the paintbrush in one spot—bring that blow dryer around just the same.
Finally, sectioning is key. You’re not going to have great results if you’re trying to dry your entire head or going over some sections while still trying to dry others. Use clips, rubber bands, whatever you have handy, to section your hair into four or five different pieces and work on one area at a time so nothing is over dried.
Use a round or paddle brush to assist with smoothing as you dry, but be gentle. Wet hair is stretchy and prone to breakage, so don’t pull too hard. Always keep the nozzle pointing downward, in the direction of your hair growth. This helps to keep the cuticle flat and reduce frizz. While it may take some time to train your technique to get it comfortable and effective for you, you’ll end up loving the polished result.
And most importantly, don’t over blow dry. Stop when your hair is just dry—NOT CRISPY. Blow drying to the point of over-drying removes excess moisture creating a lifeless look. If you’re unsure when to stop, feel your hair. If it feels cool and not damp, you’re good to go.
Alternatives to Blow Drying
So while blow drying can be effective and safe, what if you want to give your hair a break? Or what if you’re just not in the mood for a dryer? No problem—there are alternative methods to drying hair that are effective without the heat that can still get you out the door looking good.
Air drying is probably the simplest option. It’s free, requires no effort on your part, and no heat allows everything to dry naturally. But to enhance this experience of air drying, towel blot hair post wash to soak up any excess dampness. Then comb through strands with a wide-tooth comb for immediate detangling AND shaping. If you have naturally curly or wavy hair, scrunch some gel or curl cream into the strands to give texture. If straight, a light weight leave-in conditioner will keep things smooth.
The only downside? It takes time to air dry so the longer and denser the hair, the longer it will take to create a style. For those not using heat, a quick trick is to take a microfiber towel (or cotton T-shirt) and wrap the hair for ten to twenty minutes; it absorbs more moisture than just dripping will. A good shake and flip a few times can also help get some airflow.
Yet if you’re working with humidity, this might mean that air dried hair is frizzy. In this case, it may be helpful to part the wet hair into sections and braid loosely; this will minimize frizz and create soft waves once it dries. Just be careful not to braid too tight or you’ll put strain on the strands.
Of course, there’s always an alternative. One can always air dry most of the way—about 80%—and then use a blow dryer on low to add heat for the remainder. This way, one can add heat styling without adding too much and give themselves some control over the final style for those who don’t have hours to spare but want to avoid damage.
How Often Should You Blow Dry?
But how often is too often? It depends on hair type and health. For those with thick, healthy, oily hair, they may choose to blow dry multiple times per week. For those with fine, dry, or chemically treated hair, they should avoid as much as possible.
Minimize blow drying to two to three times a week and instead, air dry or create heat-free looks like buns and braids. This gives your hair a rest to replenish and save moisture.
Pay attention to what your hair is saying; if it’s brittle, frizzy, falling out, then take this as a sign that you should avoid blow drying so often and adjust to your needs. If you have somewhere nice to go or an important meeting, you can blow dry on those days, but on days you have off or are low key, air drying is a better option.
How To Treat Your Hair After Blow Drying
What you do after drying is almost as important as the blow drying itself. For starters, your hair is parched from the heat and needs moisture to ensure softness and durability.
Use a lightweight leave-in conditioner or hair oil after blow drying; it satisfies the moisture requirement and also seals in the cuticle for shine. Avoid applying to the scalp as it has natural oils already and apply to mid-length and ends, and use sparingly so that hair doesn’t feel heavy and greasy.
Also, if you blow dry often, add a deep conditioning treatment once weekly. Deep conditioning masks are like a mini spa for your hair, providing moisture and reversing minor damage. Apply it to your wet hair for 10–15 minutes and then rinse completely. You’ll feel a difference immediately as your hair will be softer. You will also see a difference with the healthy sheen of the strands.
In addition, make sure to still visit a salon for trims every 6–8 weeks. There will still be split ends, even with the perfect blow drying technique. A dusting will keep your hair looking polished and prevent splits from traveling up the hair shaft, causing more damage.
Finally, invest in a silk or satin pillowcase. Cotton causes friction when you toss and turn at night. Prevent frizz and breakage caused by this natural movement by spending a little money on a more luxurious fabric in your nighttime routine.
Conclusion
So is blow drying your hair bad? Yes, it’s bad for your hair when done improperly; however, it’s not bad for your hair per se. It’s about balance. With the proper techniques—and low heat, application of heat protectant and avoiding cloth-dried hair—you’re able to achieve what’s ideal for styling your hair without dry, frazzled ends. In addition, with a little air drying from time to time, deep conditioning treatments and awareness of what your hair needs—which it gives you clues when it feels dry and frizzy—your hair will be happy, healthy, and styled!
Next time you reach for your blow dryer, you’ll know exactly what to do. What’s your go-to hair-drying routine? Are you a blow-dry devotee or an air-dry enthusiast? Whatever your style, taking a few extra steps to protect your hair will keep it looking its best. Here’s to great hair days ahead!