Curly locks are undeniably beautiful, unique and full of personality. Whether you have tight coils or loose waves, something in between, your curly mane allows you to be different in a crowd. But the truth is, curly hair can be a little complicated. Is frizz a concern that gets blown around in the wind? Is it hard to keep a well-hydrated, decent curl? If so, you’re not alone. Curly hair takes time, effort and a little know-how to maintain—but when you achieve the look for which you’re going, the work is worth it.
Discover how to maintain curly hair in no time with this comprehensive guide. From small daily adjustments to big changes that promote healthy, hydrated, beautiful curls, learn how to properly maintain curly hair stress-free. No matter the type or length of curls, everyone will feel comfortable with these easy adjustments to make their curls do exactly what they want while loving the beauty of their natural texture. Let’s get started!
Understand Your Curl Type
Before you can maintain curly hair the right way, you have to understand your curl type. Not all curls are the same and different types require different needs. Generally speaking, there are three main types of curly hair: wavy (Type 2), curly (Type 3) and coily (Type 4).
Wavy hair has a bend, or loose S shape to it. When wet, it may appear straight, but upon drying, it looks like it has a wave pattern. Curly hair is tighter with a spiral/ringlet formation. Coily hair is coils; they are tighter curls or could even resemble a zig-zag where the texture may feel dense or wiry. Understanding your curl type helps determine products and product usage. Wavy typically needs different things than coily; the former needs lightweight products so it doesn’t weigh the wave down, whereas the latter typically needs moisture so it doesn’t frizz out.
Identifying curl type can come from observation. When your hair is clean, dry, styled, and in its ideal position, assess your curls. What shape do they take? Do you have multiple curl types on your head? That’s not uncommon. Identifying curl type gives anyone working with curls an understanding of how to proceed with the hair in the future, what adjustments need to be made daily for optimal curling functioning.
Wash Your Hair the Right Way
Washing curly hair is more complicated than just choosing a shampoo and going to town. Curly hair is often drier than straight hair; natural scalp oils need to maneuver their way from the scalp down every single twist instead of just hanging straight down. Furthermore, too much washing or using the wrong products strips these natural oils from the curls, making them look frizzy or dull. But how do you wash without ruining everything?
Start by washing less. For many people with curly hair, two to three washes a week is plenty. If you’re noticing that you’re washing every day, chances are you’re stripping your curls of their natural moisture. When you do wash, however, make sure you’re using sulfate-free shampoo; sulfates are harsh detergents that actively strip moisture from your curls and contribute to frizz. Look for “moisturizing” or “curl-friendly” shampoos to help maintain your moisture levels.
Also, take care while in the shower. When washing, keep the product to your scalp as much as possible. Massaging shampoo into the roots helps dissolve dirt and oil buildup while applying shampoo to the ends can tangle hair and create breakage potential. Rinse thoroughly, as any shampoo leftover in your curls can create buildup, weighing them down. If your hair feels squeaky clean after rinsing, this is a sign that the shampoo may be too harsh. Squeaky clean means all moisture has been stripped away. Your hair should feel clean, but soft afterward.
Another opportunity is to co-wash—instead of using shampoo, use a cleansing conditioner. Co-washing can provide a gentle cleanse to the roots of your hair while adding moisture to the strands and is a good option for those whose hair feels dry or brittle. Just be sure to rinse it out well as it can easily lead to buildup if not rinsed away thoroughly.
Condition Your Curls Properly
Conditioning is critical for curly hair. Conditioning adds moisture, helps close the hair cuticle, and helps promote curl definition. Without the proper amount of conditioning, hair can become frizzy, coarse, and lose curl properties altogether. However, it’s not just about applying conditioned but applying it properly.
After shampooing or co-washing, condition after washing, applying a generous amount to hair. Ensure that the focus is on mid-lengths and ends, as this is where curls dry the quickest. Use fingers to detangle with conditioner still in place. This allows knots to be undone without breakage. Let sit for a moment, and if there’s time, five to ten minutes is excellent for maximum benefits, allowing it to penetrate the strands even better.
Rinse out but not completely. Leaving some product in your strands allows for moisture retention and curl definition. If it feels heavy and greasy, this might mean there’s too much in your hair, so test what works best for you.
For extra benefits, use a leave-in conditioner when you get out of the shower. Leave-in conditioners help retain moisture in dry curls throughout the day and minimize frizz as they counteract dry curls. Use a dime-size amount on wet hair, especially on ends. Do not oversaturate—a little goes a long way; too much leave-in will make curls heavy and limp.
Deep Condition Frequently
If you want your curls to always feel soft and healthy, deep conditioning will change your life. Where regular conditioners are great for conditions on the go, deep conditioners are more of a special treatment. Deep conditioners penetrate the shaft of the hair to repair, rehydrate and maintain elasticity. This is key for curly hair that can dull and dry out quickly over time.
How often to deep condition? Once a week is a good rule of thumb for many with curly hair. If your hair is extra dry or damaged, consider twice a week. Make sure that what you purchase is for curly hair, this product specifically has many of the oils and butters that will deep condition for re-nourishment.
To deep condition, do so on clean, damp hair. Apply at the roots with a generous amount through the ends. Use a wide toothed comb to ensure all curls are coated for detangling purposes. Ideally, you want to put a shower cap on your head to let the deep conditioner sit for 15 to 30 minutes. For an extra boost, wrap a warm towel around the shower cap; the heat allows the deep conditioner to penetrate hair cuticles better.
When ready, rinse with lukewarm water. Hot water will dry out your curls. You will notice an immediate softening upon deep conditioning and in a matter of weeks, stronger, shinier, and less prone to breakage curls.
Detangling with Care
Tangles are a common struggle for curly hair. The twists and turns of curly strands make them more likely to knot up, especially if your hair is long or tightly coiled. Detangling the wrong way can lead to breakage, split ends, or even hair loss. So, how do you detangle without harming your curls?
The first rule about detangling: never detangle dry hair. Dry curls are more prone to breakage due to their brittle state. Always detangle when the hair is wet and conditioned. The water and slip of the conditioner help the curls to slide so that the knots come out easier. You can detangle with your fingers or a wide tooth comb. Always start at the base of the strands and work your way up to the scalp. This way, excess tugging is avoided and breakage is reduced.
Be patient and take your time. Should you encounter a tough knot, do not rip through it. Apply more conditioner to that area and gently pry apart the knot. You are doing more damage to your hair if you’re trying to hurry something along.
If your hair is prone to tangling, you may want to section your hair during the detangling process. Part your curls into four or six sections and tackle one at a time. This way, you won’t get overwhelmed and miss knots. This will help you keep curls under control with proper health over time.
Style Your Curls for Definition
You’ll know when your curls are styled for they will have a natural curl pattern, be defined and bouncy, and frizz-free. But what’s the process of styling? There are so many products and techniques!
After you’ve cleansed and conditioned, styling comes from applying a curl-defining product to damp hair. This can include curl creams, gels, or mousses depending on your texture. For example, curl creams are generally more moisturizing and softening and work well with dry or coarse textures. Gel provides more hold and is frizz resistant for those sticky, humid days. Mousse provides volume and works well with wavy or finer textures. Take your time to play with various products to find what works best for you.
To apply, rake through with fingers (you should be working in sections as you’ve separated your curls) to ensure even distribution. Then scrunch the hair to encourage the curls to form. Scrunching is when you grab the ends of the hair and squeeze gently toward the roots. This helps curls pop and remain defined.
Another styling technique is called “praying hands.” This is where you rub product between your palms and smooth the hair down in sections as if you’re clapping—this helps smooth the cuticle and decrease frizz. Once product is applied, let hair dry. Air drying is the best method to maintain a curl’s pattern while avoiding heat damage.
However, if you’re in a time crunch, diffuse your hair with the blow dryer attachment. Keep it on low heat and a few inches from the hair—cup and lift sections into the diffuser to dry without disturbing curl formation.
Protect Your Hair at Night
What you do at night can make or break your curls. Sleeping on rough pillowcases and tossing and turning can lead to frizz, flattened curls, and tangles. However, some simple adjustments can preserve hair overnight.
First, switch from a cotton pillowcase to a satin or silk one. Cotton absorbs moisture from the hair and dries it out, leading to frizz. Satin or silk are softer options that allow hair to slide over the fabric without creating friction. If you don’t want to invest in a pillowcase, you can always wrap your hair in a satin scarf or bonnet. This works to contain the curls while still protecting them.
You can also create something called a pineapple. Pineappling is when you create a loose, high ponytail on top of your head with a soft scrunchie. Make sure to use a scrunchie so that you don’t wake up with indentations in your hair. This protects against curls flattening due to the weight of your head on them. In the morning, simply take out the ponytail and fluff with fingers!
For those with very dry hair, consider putting a bit of leave-in conditioner or oil on the ends of the hair before bed. This helps seal in moisture for dry ends. These simple overnight habits will help you wake up to almost styled hair!
Don’t Use Heat or Chemicals
Heat and chemical damage are irreversible when it comes to curly hair. Applications with a blow dryer, straightener, or curling iron will suck the moisture from the strands and loosen the curl pattern. Similarly, relaxers, perms, or other chemical applications weaken the hair shaft and cause breakage. Ultimately, if you want healthy hair with curls, your best bet is to steer clear of any heat applications and as many chemicals as possible.
However, if you must apply heat to your curly hair, be sure to always apply a heat protectant spray or cream prior to using the intended tool. The protectant acts as a barrier to the hair cuticle from the heat; therefore, damage is lessened. Furthermore, always use the lowest heat setting possible while still effectively maintaining your hairstyle. Similarly, don’t aim your blow dryer in one place when diffusing; this means you’re applying too much heat to one curl. Keep it moving so the curls don’t burn.
Chemical processing is slightly more difficult. If you plan on dyeing your hair and know you want a permanent dye or relaxer, go to a professional who specializes in curly hair, as they’ll know better applications for color or chemical processing without total destruction. On the other hand, if you plan on wanting highlights forever, always consult with the curly hair professional to determine what would be less damaging. If curly hair ends up chemically processed, increase conditioning afterward to gain softness and strength.
Ultimately, the best way to avoid any processing, damage or promote healthy curls is to appreciate the texture you have. There are plenty of ways to achieve a proper style without heat, such as twist-outs, braid-outs, and bantu knots which give definition and variety without compromising integrity.
Get Regular Trims
Nothing screams frizz more than split ends and breakage. Curls can easily look big and crazy. If you get trims regularly, however, it will keep those curls looking fresh and healthy. But how often and what are the best trims?
A typical curl needs a trim every two to three months. If you find your hair grows more rapidly or is exceptionally damaged, ever six to eight weeks is appropriate, too. Don’t fear trimming your hair because you’re afraid it won’t grow; split ends will make the situation worse as the split ends travel up the hair shaft creating worse breakage—and make it shorter to begin with.
When you do go to trim your hair, make sure the stylist knows curly cuts. They should give you a dry cut, meaning they cut your hair dry and styled. This helps them assess your curl pattern and cut each curl appropriately. If you’re cutting curls at home, make sure you have hair shears (not regular scissors) and take small sections cutting only a quarter of an inch at a time so you don’t accidentally cut too much.
When you trim your curls, they’ll spring back without the weight on the ends, create more definition. It’s also easier to style with trims and over time it creates better growth.
Be Consistent with Your Routine
The reason good curly hair care works is from consistency. You cannot expect good results from not following a routine all the time. Maintaining a consistent washing, conditioning and styling schedule keeps those curls in check.
Create a schedule that works with your life. If you wash and style your hair every Sunday and Wednesday, that’s fine—but just make sure in-between refreshers happen. Use the same products for at least a few weeks—there’s a learning curve to every product. When things go awry, only change one aspect of the schedule to see how it goes. When everything gets switched at once, it’ll be impossible to know what’s working and what’s impeding the curling process.
Start noticing how hair feels day by day. If hair is feeling too dry, add a little bit more conditioner or a deep conditioning mask. If hair feels too limp, use less product or implement some sort of clarifying shampoo. Hair may react differently in the seasons or as it grows, so be open-minded and pliable to change.
Consistency does not need to be overly complicated, either. An easy schedule like twice a week with shampoo, every time with conditioner, and a styling curl cream, works just as well because as long as one follows the plan, it’s effective.
Conclusion
Having curly hair isn’t complicated if one knows what to do. With a routine, one can keep curly hair hydrated, defined, and healthy day in and day out. Assess the types of curls and choose products based on what’s needed for hydration. Wash gently and thoroughly, condition with intention, detangle with care, and style with the best options for maximum definition. Use cotton scarves or pillowcases to keep curls in their place at night, avoid heated or chemical damage, and get regular trims before split ends wreak havoc. Finally, keep on routine for optimal results.
Your curls are a gift and just need some love. A little fuzzy? A bit dry? Try these tricks and see what happens. Not all will work for you but with thought and some time, you’ll figure out your faves. Enjoy your natural texture, experiment with styles and enjoy your new mane. Here’s to healthy hair and happy you!