Acne is a personal affront. You wake up in the morning, walk to the bathroom, glance in the mirror and—oops! —there’s a pimple. What an irritating situation. Are you a teenager plagued with hormonal acne? An adult always scratching her cheeks with just one or two bumps popping up now and then? Either way, you’ve probably done everything in your power to find and search every remedy to maximize your results of treatment for any skincare issue. From face washes to exfoliants to spot treatment and everything in between, the list goes on. But have you ever tried vitamin C? Sure, we all know that vitamin C helps us not get colds, but does it help the skin?
Vitamin C is a current skincare buzzword—from serums to face creams to oral supplements. While many rave about vitamin C for skin brightening properties and fading dark spots, is it beneficial for acne? Let’s find out why it would be a good thing to add to your skincare regimen or why you should steer clear. In this article, we’ll discuss what vitamin C is, what it does and why it might be beneficial for those struggling with acne, as well as when and how to apply it to your skincare routine, so read more to see if vitamin C is worth the buzz.
What is Vitamin C?
Vitamin C is a vitamin that the body desires. Found in citrus fruits, berries and peppers, vitamin C is linked to a healthy immune system and other positive bodily functions. Yet, when it comes to topical use, vitamin C transcends beyond a vitamin to become a wondrous skincare ingredient. Usually known as ascorbic acid or L-ascorbic acid in topical serums and moisturizers, this is the vitamin C that captures people’s attention as it actually works.
When applied to the face, for example, vitamin C absorbs within the skin and works wonders. First, it is an antioxidant. This means it prevents the skin from free radicals that can penetrate the skin via pollution, UV exposure or other external aggressors that lead to premature aging. Second, vitamin C promotes collagen production within the skin, leading to a firmer, more elastic, plump appearance. Third, vitamin C can lighten dark spots attributable to sun damage, age or over time—when used consistently, it ensures a brighter complexion. But one question remains: can this super vitamin help with acne? This requires some background information about acne specifically.
What Causes Acne?
Acne happens for various reasons; it’s not just people with oily skin or those who are gluten intolerant. Essentially, skin has pores and when these pores become clogged with sebum (excess oil), dead skin or bacteria, a pimple forms. There are other factors that foster pore clogging or excess oil production; hormones stimulate oil production in adolescents and females on their periods—this explains why these two populations are much more prone to outbreaks. Stress can contribute to acne breakouts, certain diets destroy skin integrity and even genetic, neutral topical products can create additional issues.
There are different types of acne, too. Whiteheads and blackheads are the more benign—pore clogging with no real irritation—but then there are pustules and cysts—those red, angry pimples that feel like they last a lifetime. The worse cases happen as a result of inflammation. When your skin is angry, it swells, and boom that blemish takes over your entire face. So how does vitamin C come to play to quell the inflammation? Let’s see how it works.
How Vitamin C Helps the Skin
Vitamin C is a multi functional skincare ingredient. It doesn’t just offer one task, it helps with multiple concerns. For one, vitamin C is an antioxidant, meaning it protects the skin from negative reactions. It’s an affront to pollution or sun damage that makes skin sensitive. This is important because when damage occurs, irritation happens and subsequently, acne.
Secondly, vitamin C works with inflammation. Those red bumps? Inflamed pimples, and vitamin C helps reduce redness. So at the very least, it can calm the look of angry breakouts. Plus if you suffer from post inflammatory hyperpigmentation—a fancy way to call the dark mark that remains after the pimple goes away—vitamin C can help brighten this, too, as it inhibits melanin production, thus reducing pigment that’s giving the dark mark its hue.
Finally, vitamin C helps with collagen production. This doesn’t stop acne from forming, but it promotes skin healing. When an acne event occurs, it’s like a small puncture to your skin, and collagen is critical to repair that injury. The more intact your skin remains, the less likely it is to cause future breakouts. So vitamin C seems like a good thing! But does it help with acne or just other skin conditions?
Can Vitamin C Help with Acne?
Sadly, vitamin C is not an acne cure in a bottle. If you’re using vitamin C to get rid of a pimple, similar to a prescription treatment overnight, you’re going to be let down. Acne is multifaceted; no one ingredient is the be-all-and-end-all. However, vitamin C can still play an integral role in your routine—especially for redness and post-acne hyperpigmentation.
In fact, because vitamin C is an anti-inflammatory, using vitamin C can reduce the inflammation and redness of pimples. This is a massive benefit for those who experience painful cystic acne. While it won’t kill the bacteria in your pores or stop oil production like other treatments, it’s allowing your skin to be in a less aggravated state. For mild acne—small bumps, whiteheads, and infrequent breakouts—this may be enough.
Where vitamin C reigns supreme is post-acne blemishes. Those annoying dark spots left behind after the pimple goes away? Vitamin C can kick those to the curb faster, leading to a smoother complexion and more even coloration. And for those who often get blemishes but also pick them (who doesn’t?), vitamin C can help heal that secondary assault. So, while not an acne solution, it’s a worthy sidekick to clearer skin.
How to Use Vitamin C for Acne
If you want to give vitamin C a try on your acne-prone skin, there’s a bit of a learning curve. Some vitamin C applications can backfire if applied in the wrong way. Here’s what you need to know.
First, the application MUST be appropriate. The most common vitamin C applications for the face are serums, a lightweight option that allows for concentrated doses of the vitamin. You want a vitamin C serum that is 10-20% (ascorbic acid is best). Below 10% may prove ineffective, while over 20% can irritate or be too much for the skin. For those who have never used vitamin C, better to start lower at around 10%.
Then apply vitamin C in the daytime after washing the face. A few drops are all that’s needed—no over-saturation necessary. Pat it onto the skin, let it soak in for up to 60 seconds, and then apply a moisturizer and, ideally, sunscreen. Why sunscreen? Because vitamin C can make the skin sensitive to sunlight, and sunlight does no good for inflamed acne. In addition, sunscreen works wonders on those transient dark spots.
Also, if you’re on other acne drugs like benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid, be careful. A combination of aggressive active ingredients means an angry, reactive skin. Try vitamin C in the AM and acne serum in the PM to separate the two. And don’t expect vitamin C to work overnight; it can take weeks for vitamin C to get in there and get going.
What Not to Use With
Overall, vitamin C is a safe active but not everyone should use it. Many complain of stinging or redness associated with vitamin C on their skin, especially those who are hyper-sensitive. If this is you, maybe use a lower concentration or every other day until your skin gets used to the active. You might also want to source out a gentler form such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate versus L-ascorbic acid.
Finally, vitamin C is perishable. Once your vitamin C serum gets yellow or brown, it’s oxidized—and not in the good way. Store vitamin C serums in dry, cool, dark places (your bathroom cabinet) and make sure to use them within a couple months of opening. And before applying any new product on your face, always patch test. A dab behind your ear or on your wrist will tell you if your skin wants to revolt.
Note that if your acne is cystic (large painful nodules forming below the surface of the skin), there’s no way you’re going to remedy this problem without professional help. Cystic acne requires pharmaceuticals or laser treatment so it’s best to visit a dermatologist and get a prescription to help clear it up. But if you have mild or moderate acne, or inflammatory acne, Vitamin C can be a wonderful addition to your regimen.
Other Ways to Support Your Skin
The key takeaway is that Vitamin C is helpful but it’s not a magic bullet. Clear skin comes from many sources. For instance, washing your face twice per day adds to the prevention of extra oils accumulating and dirt and bacteria clogging up the pores. But don’t use harsh cleansers as stripping the skin will cause the skin to overreact and create even more oil. Daily moisturizing is also required—even if you have oily skin. That sounds counterintuitive but without moisturizing, the skin creates more skin in an effort to hydrate itself, making itself even more oily.
Moreover, your diet is critical; drinking enough water and eating fruits and vegetables necessary for a balanced diet leads to happy skin. While candy and greasy foods do not cause acne per se, they don’t help your skin either. Additionally, if you’re getting enough sleep, those benefits go under the skin as overtired skin doesn’t have the ability to fight off acne as well as skin that is rested.
And then there’s stress. Everyone gets that last-minute pimple before a presentation or first date—how annoying! But combating stress with breathing techniques or short walks prevents added concern from showing up on your face. Paired with Vitamin C, you’re well on your way to healthy, non-stressed skin!
Should You Take Vitamin C Supplements?
Opinions are divided about taking vitamin C supplements. Sometimes, they can bolster one’s health (and some persons believe oral vitamin C helps skin, too). When taken orally, it can help your overall body with healing and reducing inflammation—which can be beneficial for acne over time—but not in the way you think. Oral vitamin C is not as effective as topical. When you’re putting a serum on your skin, it goes directly where it needs to go; when you’re taking a supplement, it’s going through your system and traveling the whole body without focused effects.
So if you want to try out supplements, feel free—but don’t anticipate they’ll clear up your acne by themselves. Just take the recommended dosage—500-1000mg per day should suffice—and consult with a doctor for any additional questions. You can also eat high vitamin C foods to boost your levels without swallowing a pill—citrus fruits and broccoli are easy ways.
What Can You Mix with Vitamin C?
You can—and should—with certain ingredients. Vitamin C works well with vitamin E or ferulic acid. Many serums that feature such combinations help vitamin C remain a more stable antioxidant for longer endeavors. If you’re looking to fade dark spots, niacinamide is another great additive—but make sure to apply it at a different time than vitamin C to avoid irritation.
Just don’t mix vitamin C with retinol or strong acids like glycolic acid. These together can irritate and cause redness and then peeling. If you want to use these two different actives, get vitamin C for the daytime and retinol for the nighttime so your skin can adjust properly. The general rule is to use slowly and see what your skin says.
Is Vitamin C Safe for Acne?
So is vitamin C safe for acne? While it’s not a game changer, it’s definitely something to explore if you have mild acne, inflammation and/or post-acne dark spots. Because it helps reduce inflammation and fade marks, it’s a good option for brightening acne-prone skin. Plus it’s preventative for new damage which makes for great looking skin down the road.
But if you’re looking for a quick fix fail. Vitamin C thrives as part of your daily routine and as part of other healthy skin activities like cleansing/moisturizing and SPF. For cystic acne and stubborn pimples, you will likely need something stronger, but vitamin C can definitely help with the process too.
Conclusion
Dealing with acne is a battle that sometimes feels endless, but you don’t have to fight it alone. While vitamin C won’t be a cure all, it is a versatile ingredient that can help in different ways. From soothing inflammation to diminishing dark spots to fighting off environmental aggressors, vitamin C is a nice product to add into your routine especially if you’re overusing harsh actives that dry and irritate your skin.
It’s just a question of appropriate use—a good serum, everyday application, and patience. Throw in appropriate cleansing, a nutritious diet, and a little adjustment period, and you could find yourself taking a selfie with radiant skin. Have you tried vitamin C for clearer skin? If you haven’t, you should because who wouldn’t want clearer skin?